Saturday, January 12, 2008
FYI - Peacemakers
http://www.azpeacemakers.com/jj/
Postscript to the above post:
One thing that I've rediscovered since moving to Japan is drinking before I go to the bar. That way if there's nobody I know there I'm a little more ready to start talking to random strangers right away. Therefore, I was drinking a beer and a tequila (cabo waba anejo, very good) while I wrote that last bit. Once I got to the gaijin bar, it wasn't the gaijin bar. The only other gaijin in the bar was on the guiness tap. Drank 2 beers, read a newspaper, and waited, but nobody showed, so I decided to go to another bar named "Suckerpunch". Despite it's Refreshments ties, it was closed at 11 on a Saturday nigh, so I don't know if it's even in business anymore. But I did sing that "I speak you language" song the whole walk there.
Kyoto Day 3 - temple, temple, temple...
My plan was to go a couple subway stops North and follow the temples southwest until I came to a train station a few stops West of my hotel. As the crow flies it was about 2km, but with wandering around the temples and taking a few wrong turns, I knew it would be a lot longer.
The first stop on my plan was Daitokuji. I walked all around it and it seemed to be closed, so I had to decide whether to wait around to see if it opened or keep moving. Since I didn't see any sign showing when it would open, I decided to move on. On wandered past one of the subtemples, and it was open so I went in. It was a small temple famous for it's tea room, but it also had a big, beautiful garden, and I pretty much had it all to myself.
Next stop was probably the biggest tourist temple in Kyoto, Kinkakuji, the golden pavilion. Famous for having a golden pavilion. It's originally from about 1400, but was burned down a few times since then, most recently and famously in 1950 by a disturbed monk. They rebuilt and slightly improved on the original, replacing all the gold leaf that was mostly gone before it burned. I scraped together enough Japanese to get someone to take this picture.
It's a pretty little temple, but the real claim to fame is the rock garden. It's about 25m by 10m, and you can only look from the one long side. There were people packed in 2 deep looking at the garden and meditating. It's just white gravel and 15 stones, laid out by a famous painter around 1500. Very beautiful, but sometime I don't really get the Japanese sense of beauty.
After Ryoanji was Ninnaji, a big temple complex that dates from the 9th century. Seeing as they mostly build with wood, the original buildings are all gone and most of the buildings there now are from the 17th century. There were more gardens, temples, and a 5 story pagoda. It was probably my favorite temple of day 3.
Plan was to follow the wiki recommendation and go to an okonomiyaki shop on Shijodori and try to find one of the bars they list in the travel guide. I found the okonomiyaki place, and it was exactly what wiki promised: "pleasantly grubby". That seems like the right way to do okonomiyaki. Plus, the name was "Mr. Young Men", but not in a gay way.
After eating and wandering, I found a bar to have a couple drinks at. Unfortunately, it was still early and I was already beat, so it wasn't very exciting. I just had my 2 beers at what I can only describe as the Japanese version of the American version of an Irish pub and headed back around 9:30. Only one day left, and lots to see before I catch my train.
Wednesday, January 9, 2008
Kyoto Day 2 - Nara
I go on the same train as I did on Day 1, but this time it was the right train, so 30 minutes later I was in the first capital of Japan. I had an aggressive sightseeing plan, but I promised myself I would take more breaks and not be as tired at the end of the day. Didn't work.
First I walked through the nearest temple, Kofukuji. The big attractions there were a 5 story pagoda, some hexagon shrines, and a "Treasure House". The treasure house was 500 yen, but I went in anyway. It was a bunch of statues that were originally all around the temple, but since they were all designated "Important Cultural Assets" they moved them inside.
Next on the itinerary was Todaiji and it's giant Buddha, or diabutsu. But on the way there, I found the first of the tame deer and decided to feed them.
These deer pretty much have the run of the town. Todaiji, like most famous temples, has a street full of tourist shops leading up to it. This is right across the street from the park, and the deer seem to feel welcome in the shops, too.
I walked all around town looking at all the "World Heritage" sights before heading back. I was much better prepared this time. I brought not only my map but my compass, and didn't get lost at all. It helped that there were waves of people all moving in the same basic rotation around town. Just follow the flow. I finished the day off at the Nara National Museum. They have all sorts of ancient art and archaeological stuff like pots and cups from ancient Japan. The most interesting thing I saw was a series of displays showing how the wooden Buddhas were made. There was also a nice explanation of the different hand gestures that Buddhas have.
Stopped in the train station Starbucks on the way home and took this picture. Notice the kimono girls in the window. Just made me laugh.
Sorry this didn't get up sooner. I had a party Monday, and last night I went to another guys apartment to watch the debacle.
On the bright side, when I got there to watch the game, another OAP who took his family to Thailand for vacation had brought me back a bottle of Mekong.
Sunday, January 6, 2008
Kyoto Day 1 - Mostly Lost
I woke up early Wednesday morning, packed up my big backpack and walked to the station to catch my 8:20 Shinkansen to Kyoto. I got there about 3 hours later and started getting lost. My plan was to drop my big backpack off in a coin locker and grab my small backpack to carry around my map and stuff, and to pack up any souvenirs I might buy. I wandered Kyoto station for about 15 minutes before I could find a locker, and then grabbed a quick lunch at McDonalds's while I figured out the next step.
Here's where I made my first mistake. I planned on going to Fushimi Inari shrine in the south of town first, so I got out my train map and looked for a station named Fushimi. That was on a different, private company train line that was on the other side of the station. I followed the signs until they just sort of petered out. I looked turned around, saw the name with an arrow pointing the other way and followed it until I was back where I started. Did that 2 or 3 times and asked for directions. The guy at the information booth gestured to go outside and turn right, with a big, sweeping gesture that I took to mean go around. I went outside, saw construction that I took to mean this entrance was closed, and went around the building (which is a long way). When I got to the other side, I followed the signs that led me back to the same side of the building I started on. Turns out there were some stairs I was supposed to take that I missed.
When I finally got on the train, I sat down and looked into my guide book to see what to do when I got to Fushimi station. There, it clearly said that Fushimi Inari is close to both Fushimi Inari station and Inari station, but no where near Fushimi station. I had to re-check my train map and come up with plan be, which meant going past Fushimi station and transferring to another line to come back up to Fushimi Inari station.
Once I got there, I just followed the crowd. It was pretty easy to find the temple.
I took a picture of the crowd on the trail, and just now noticed that this guy thought I was taking a picture of him. Or maybe somebody was taking a picture of him, I don't know, either way I got the peace sign.
I followed the crowd up the mountain, step by step. It was like there was a roller coaster at the top or something, the line was so slow. I finally got to the end of the toriis and took a look around the shrine there, only to find more toriis leading up. I said to myself "Where do these stairs go? They go up" and kept following. I walked a while, came to the end, and saw more gates leading up. I'd come to a clearing, and there would be either another shrine or a small rest stop, snack bar thing, and another trail lined with toriis going up. The crowd started thinning out, and I started thinking "I've come this far, might as well finish". Seemed like a good idea the first 5 or 6 rest areas, but eventually it became less sightseeing and more just wanting to finish something. Sometimes the only path leading away would be downhill, and I would think I was finished, but it would turn a corner and keep going up.
Finally, after an hour of climbing, I found the top and started going down, still on a torii lined path.
I don't know if I was getting delirious or just got my second wind or what, but when I saw a non-torii path branching off down the mountain with nobody on it, I decided to take it. Road less travelled and all that. I thought it may be faster, since the steps looked steeper. The further I got from the torii path, the steeper this path got, until I started doubting the safety of my choice, but I was too tired to go back up, so I kept going. I got to the bottom, and instead of the temple, I was in some body's back yard. I had come down the wrong side of the mountain.
This isn't a huge mountain, so I figured if I kept the mountain to one side of me I could follow the road around and find my way back to where back. All part of the adventure, I figured. I was wandering around a basically rural area outside of the city, and it was getting late. The sun goes down around 5 or so here, and it was 4 and overcast. I started getting a little worried. I didn't have a backup plan, so I just kept walking. About 30 minutes later, I saw some people walk out of a little shrine, looked inside and saw a torii lined path. I took the path, and the torii's stopped about 100 yards further on. It was still going the direction I though I wanted it to, so I kept going, One of the stones slipped, and I fell down, but I felt good to be on the right path again. I finally popped out a trail at the first shrine on the way up the mountain. So that's why I look so worn out and happy in this picture. Did I mention it was cold?
After picking up some lucky charms as souvenirs, I went back to the station (the right way) to pick up my stuff and check into the hotel. I was staying right across the street from Nijo-jo castle, but I'll get to that. I checked in and rested for an hour before starting stage 2.
I took the subway over to someplace close to Gion, the geisha section of town. My plan was to do some geisha spotting, eat dinner, and then find one of the western style bars I read about. I either got there too late or was looking in the wrong place for the geishas, so no luck there. I was wandering around looking for either a geisha, food, or finding the bars when I saw another temple with a crowd. I figured there were probably food stands there, so I decided to make that dinner.
While I was eating my cup of chicken nuggets and wandering around the temple/carnival, I ran into Todd (one of the other OAPs) and his family. I knew they were going to be in Kyoto, but I figured with 2000 shrines and temples, the odds of running into them were pretty slim.
I went back to the bar for a couple beers and the end of a soccer game (they're all Irish pubs here), then, since the place was dead, went back to the hotel to rest and plot out my next day. Since this is already way too long, I'll get to that tomorrow.
Sunday, December 30, 2007
Nihongo no OBL
Anyway, I've ridden by this place a few times and I though it looked like a real bar, so I went there last night. First, I lubricated my Japanese skills with a couple of beers at home, which put me a little closer to my Japanese speaking OBL. Not enough, of course, but close.
I walked in through the honky-tonk style swinging half doors, and saw a big wooden eagle, a route 66 sign, and 3 guys who looked like a Japanese Stray Cats tribute band. All slicked pompadours and cowboy-ish shirts, ready to rockabilly the night away. These were the guys working there. Other than them, there was a couple at one table and 2 older ladies at the bar, and a couple of dozen Elvis pictures.
I asked for a beer, rockabilly bartender asked what kind and started listing my choices. When he came to "Buda-why-za", I gave him my "really?!!" face, which I find to be quite useful when talking broken Japanese. He yelled to the rockabilly waiter to bring me a Bud, and when he did, it came with a mug in the shape of a boot, and I knew this was a place I could get used to.
I drank my boot-beer and listened to the ladies ordering a drink. They were just listing off liquors and juices, making it up as they went along. She finally had a tequila, watermelon schnapps, and OJ. I reached deep into my 3rd beer Japanese skills and asked what the name of that drink was, and she said "it's original" in English. They were very nice to me the rest of the time they were there, even reminding me the word for salt when I ordered a tequila (they actually had Cuervo).
They left and another guy came in, who seemed very interested in talking to an American. I talked to this guy about cars, motorcycles, and baseball for about an hour (10 minutes of actual conversation, 50 minutes of trying to get the other person to understand).
It was definitely a fun place, with oldies on the stereo and Tom and Jerry on the TV, and 4 seriously rockabilly guys wandering around. Other than the fact they were Japanese, something about the place really reminded me of "Swingers". I will be going back for sure. Next time I'll bring my camera.
Today, I'm going to watch football this morning and make an itinerary for my upcoming Kyoto trip tonight. I'm going to go to the Lion's Head tomorrow for whatever New Years festivities they have, then on Tuesday I'm going to check out what sort of activity there is at the local temples and pack for Kyoto. My hotel says they have internet access, so maybe there will be updates from Kyoto, but my itinerary may be too packed.
Tuesday, December 18, 2007
Weekend in Tokyo
First in Shinjuku, we went to this temple where they were supposed to have a flea market on Sunday. It was funny seeing these ratty tables with peoples random junk in the middle of this ancient temple. Didn't they cover this in Sunday school?
We walked to the other side of the station to go to the bookstore to get me a Kyoto guidebook, and then went on to a mall. The place wasn't very big in area, but we rode the escalators all the way up to the 12th floor looking around. Here's the part of Christmas they decided to embrace.
The place is not as big with electronics as it used to be, and it's picking up the economic slack with Anime and porn. When we walked out of the station, there was a big crowd around something, so I had to go look. Here's what it was:
On another topic, I watched that Browns game last night. That was the first time I felt really like I was missing something. It's going to suck to watch them in the playoffs alone with a computer and a Kirin.
Saturday, December 15, 2007
This week's drinkin' stories
Now, I don't want this guy thinking that Americans are liars, especially because of something a Canadian said, so we started off the night at stage zero, this restaurant, for 1 beer before we go to the party. No sooner does the waitress (who is surprised to see us) put the beers down then the owner tells her to bring more. So we got our free beer, but were already 2 ahead of the pace when we went to the party.
Pretty standard Japanese party, lots of food and beer. I learned both that the word for cuttlefish is "ika" and that it's delicious. Probably drank a little too much, but I pushed through to stage 2, the hostess bar. I heard one guy on the phone negotiating letting Americans in, and we were off.
It was your normal hostess bar, girls being especially friendly to me. Whether this is because I'm American, or because I'm single, or because the Japanese guys said something to them, I don't know. I must be learning something, because I was able to make a little small talk with girls in Japanese, and to tell them Chris is a movie star.
I don't know if it's a good sign or not, but I've learned enough Japanese to get myself into trouble now. I tried to tell the girl next to me that she's tall, which I though was funny since the word for tall is the same as the word for expensive. Clever Japanese play on words with the girl I'm paying to be my friend. However, my pronunciation was a little off, and I guess I said it it a way that made her sound like an evil giant. She seemed a little hurt, did the playful hitting thing, and told me "Not takai, ookii". This just confused me more, since ookii means big, and even I know you don't tell a girl she's big. Got into a big discussion, mostly of me apologizing and trying to figure out what the right thing to say was.
We stayed there for the usual amount of time, but since the party started late, it was almost 4 before I got home and passed out. I felt surprisingly OK this morning, but when I saw Chris this evening, he apparently didn't fare quite as well. Anyway, sorry no pictures this time. We're going to Tokyo tomorrow, so maybe I'll have some then.